Cleaning Leather Whips & Floggers:

To clean the tails, wipe each tail with a cloth soaked in warm soapy water. You can also use Lexol Leather Cleaner to wipe the tails. To disinfect the tail, soak a cloth in 70% isopropyl alcohol and wipe them clean. Always let leather dry naturally and completely before storing. Never use a dryer for your leather. After using any cleaner/alcohol on leather always use a leather conditioner. If you store wet or damp leather mildew will grow. If you need to press the tails, use a warm iron over a cloth. Store leather in a cool dry place Leather needs to breathe so don't store it in a plastic bag or container.

Maintenance & Cleaning of Leather Clothing

Leather clothing should be dry-cleaned. Spots and stains can be removed with a damp cloth or by using a leather cleaner. Saddle soap can be used for cleaning leather if you are careful and dry-cleaning is not an option. Leather clothing should be conditioned every 6 to 9 months using a leather conditioner. When using a conditioner or leather cleaner be careful not to wet the stitching as the conditioners will weaken the stitching over time. Metal parts that touch the skin can be coated with a clear nail polish to prevent tarnishing.

Maintenance & Cleaning of Latex Clothing

In general, Latex will decay from salt/sweat. However as long as you wash off the salt/sweat after you wear it, put baby-powder on the inside ( or Cult which is a latex lube) and polish the outside latex, it will keep fresh. Before putting on latex clothing, wipe some cornstarch powder or Cult (latex lubricant) on the inside of the garment, which makes it easier to put the garment on. The oil from talc powder will damage the latex. When dressing, always be extremely careful of sharp objects such as jewelry, rings, fingernails, etcetera, which can tear the latex. Oils, greases, abrasives and solvents will destroy latex. Keep latex away from heat, flames will damage and destroy latex. Direct sunlight will discolor and perish latex. Polishing latex conditions the clothing and helps prevent cracking. After wearing latex, wash the item by hand in lukewarm water with mild soap and let it hang to dry or dry it off with a towel. After drying lightly powder the inside. You can lightly polish or lightly powder the outside. Store latex in a dark, dry place. Never use oil-based products, detergents, bodyoil or petroleum on latex: it will cause decay. Copper, brass and bronze will permanently stain latex. Water-based lubricants aren't harmful to latex. Once again be very careful of sharp objects when putting on latex. Never pull on latex with your fingertips as this will create stretch marks on the latex. We do not replace latex that has been torn or ripped.

On a more personal note, as I also enjoy wearing latex, I put powder or Cult on the inside, then put the item on and use a latex polish to get a really nice shine. I usually use a bit of mild soap and hand wash it then dry with a towel, powder and then put it away. I have some latex items that I bought over 12 years ago, so even though latex is "fragile" if you take care of it the item can last for many years. Yum, yum...

Recommended polish & conditioner:
Eros Lubricant

Recommended Reading
Leather and Latex Care

Canes: Cleaning

Unfinished Canes:You can soak them in water, usually every 3 or 4 months. You can also wipe the cane with Linseed Oil or Old English Furniture Oil (use the clear oil so as not to stain the cane). I prefer oil to water as I find water dries up more quickly. Either will work. You may want to cover the handle if it's suede or leather, to prevent oil stains. Also, if you leave the cane standing in a saucer of oil for a few days, it will suck up some oil and stay supple. However, if you store your canes near a radiator or in a hot room you may want to condition them more frequently.

Varnished/Finished canes If a cane was dry and then varnished it will probably break, there's not too much you can do except sand off some of the varnish at the tip and oil or water the cane. You can use a fine sandpaper to file the tip of the cane. Put some oil in a saucer or a cup and let the cane stand in it for a few days, this may help keep the cane fresh. I usually leave my canes in a saucer of oil for a few days, then dry the tip and they seem to keep nice and springy.

Helpful Caning Hints:

Always ensure that the kidneys/base of the spine are either covered or out of harm's way. This is one of the reasons you "bend over" so as to avoid the back and kidney areas if you miss. You can practice on a cushion, putting a bit of powder on the cane to see where it lands. You can also have someone lie on a bed and put a towel on the base of the back and one at the top of the legs. This prevents damage if the cane wraps or you miss the target.

I always like to warm someone up before using the cane. If you cane someone very fast, with little or no wait time between strokes, the butt will go numb quickly, which is why you should wait between each stroke. Thin canes are more stingy, thicker ones more thuddy. If a cane breaks in the middle, it's usually because it was to dry. If the tip of the cane breaks, it's because you were using it too hard or like a paddle. Remember, a cane is a piece of reed and when used correctly will travel upwards of 200 mph If a cane breaks, you can file the end down. If the break is close to the tip, use a fine sandpaper, you can use tape or nylon fishing line to wrap the end which will strengthen the tip.

To clean the cane you can use a 50% water, 50% peroxide solution. Wipe the vane and then dry it off fairly quickly, especially for varnished canes as you don't want to damage the finish.